Our friends Carla and Jason Rupp have put together this lovely guest post on Mayo, County Ireland. We hope you enjoy their story.
The Irish Language and the Gaeltacht
Irish-speaking communities in the Republic of Ireland are scattered over four provinces and seven counties, including Mayo County. Full of breathtaking beauty, friendly people full of stories and historical sights. The Gaeltacht is the term used to refer to these areas of Ireland where Gaeilge (the Irish language) is spoken.
We learned that only 1% of the general population of the Republic of Ireland can speak their native language of Gaelic, and have real conversations using it.
In our travels, we heard some of the Irish language spoken. We could have been mistaken at times, since when we listened to locals speaking amongst themselves, thinking Irish language is the Irish-English language sometimes, especially since many locals even use a mix of languages in their conversations. To educate ourselves, one day we took an enlightening class in Irish language. While we found it extremely interesting, we also found it really difficult to learn.
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First Impressions of Mayo County
Just over 130,000 persons live in Mayo County, known for its small towns and wild and natural landscape. We explored this county for 10 days. It’s an environment rich with beauty, heritage, traditional music, pubs, and folklore. It is also filled with traditions, culture, cute shops, and expanding cottage industries.
It’s rare to see a building over two floors. Signs everywhere were in both languages, Irish and English. Gaeltacht areas are situated mainly along the Western Irish seaboard, and include extensive parts of counties Mayo, Donegal, Galway and and Kerry and also parts of counties Cork, Waterford, and Meath.
Following the Wild Atlantic Way
We followed the Wild Atlantic Way through quaint Mayo County’s small towns. The main Irish-speaking towns in County Mayo are in Erris, Achill Island and Toormakeady. Not only did we find educational opportunities in large Mayo County, one of 26 counties in the Republic of Ireland, but we found time to hike, play golf, do “yacht sailing” on breathtaking Keel Beach, and take lots of photographs.
A Chilly Swim and a Local Barbershop Experience
Jason was brave to swam in the Atlantic Ocean on a windy, frigid September morning with locals in Belmullet. Locals routinely do the plunge in the mornings and claim it helps with longevity. Jason was also satisfied to get a haircut and shave with barber Lewy at Lewy’s Barber Lounge in Downtown Ballina, one of the Mayo County towns, for our YouTube channel called Jason Rupp: Travel & Pamper.
Finding the “True Ireland”
We think we found the “true Ireland” in our touring in Mayo County, away from large cities. We were continually amazed at the brightest green pastures, with sheep, cows or horses grazing, the exquisite scenery, and the hospitable people. Stories of people in the past, with their joys and sufferings, came alive for us as we were guided through the county to various ruins and historic places.
Blacksod Lighthouse Tour
Blacksod Lighthouse is one of the original lighthouses of Ireland still in operation today. Our awesome local guide Fergus Sweeney took us on a special tour inside the lighthouse and did a great job explaining what life is like in the lighthouse and about his family connection.
His grandparents were part of the lighthouse history, with his grandmother Maureen having a direct connection to the events of D-Day. His father Gerry and his uncle still are employed at Blacksod Lighthouse, with Fergus also working sometimes there too. It was fun hearing all the stories of lighthouse life and going to the top and taking photos around the grounds.
Exploring Achill Island
Achill Island, located in Mayo County, is the largest island in Ireland; and we loved visiting there and staying a few nights. Achill in Gaeilic is said to mean “eagle.” The island has a history of over 5,000 years old. Dooagh Shop is a fun, quirky place we stopped in first for hot chocolate and coffee and treats. Local community people like to hang out here.
A variety of lodging opportunities are available on the island, from hotels to homes, “pods” in nature, tents or guest houses. Nanny Goose’s Glamping Pods is an unusual lodging. We found Pure Magic Lodge charming; offering rooms and a restaurant, where we ate a delicious breakfast and dinner.
Language Class and the Achill Experience
Here you can arrange adventures, such as kitesurfing and watersports. We joined a language class, with an instructor teaching a lesson in the Gaeilge language. We practiced pronouncing the words and phrases as he explained how and where to use them in the one-hour session. After class, it was fun to take a tour in an aquarium at what is called Achill Experience in the Visitor Centre.
Achill Island Seasalt Company
A visit to Achill Island Seasalt company, founded in 2013 by the O’Malley family, is educational. Their motto is “born of the sea.” This company started as a cottage industry, with sea salt produced in the family kitchen. Today, they operate a custom modified factory on the island.
The procedure is explained to tour guests, who learn how they combine traditional and modern techniques to harvest award-winning natural sea flakes from the wild Atlantic waters. We tasted different flavours, including a smoked one we liked, browsed in the beautiful gallery, and in the gift shop we bought a bag of toffee candy with sea salt in it.
Sand Sailing on the Beach
A surprise awaited us when we walked on the nearby beach. A group of French young men (Carla said they were quite handsome!) offered us to do “sand sailing on the sandy beach” in what looked like a one-person tiny yacht. The sailing is done on the sand and not in the water.
We took up their offer and took some pictures of the unusual experience. Zooming around in circles on the wide sandy beach was exhilierating.
The Beehive Craft & Coffee Shop
Visiting The Beehive Craft & Coffee Shop on Achill Island is a lot more than admiring the Irish crafts and lovely sweaters for sale: it had one of our favorite restaurants. We really loved everything, especially the delicious lunch (seafood chowder and salad) followed by the best fruit crumble dessert! We shared our desserts, rhubarb and blackberry, with each other.
Solas Visitor Centre and Local Stories
At the Solas Visitor Centre, we were delighted to hear the history and stories from local guide Fergus. Our guide shared tales in the exhibit rooms of the museum, where we learned of the proud history, deep struggles, music, arts and more of the Erris area of Mayo County. We recommend relaxing and eating in the Solas Cafe and checking out the gift shop with local products.
Fergus’s tour took us to various sites of ruins, and we heard stories and hiked at the deserted town, We heard about the effects of climate change, the famine, and the healing experience story of Saint Dervla; we visited her grave. We also got out of the van to take a walk at the ruins site of Cross Abbey on the wild Atlantic Ocean.
We could “see” the stories: this wasn’t all just pretty scenery or a hill with beautiful grass. Stories became more real to us. When we heard about the healing waters that healed Saint Dervla’s eyes, we put water on our faces and eyes at the ruins from a “well” to “experience” what it may have been like. We also drank from the delicious water.
Staying in Belmullet
In the town of Belmullet, we can highly recommend our lodging at upscale Talbot Hotel, where we enjoyed our two nights. Breakfast was lovely; what we liked was that guests could pour unlimited high-quality coffee, enjoy the buffet of fruits, yogurt, nuts and dried fruits. You serve yourself with all this before the entree arrives.
Hospitality is great, and the open kitchen was fun to see. One morning Jason took a swim in the cold ocean water, saying, “It wasn’t so cold. I felt refreshed.” He wasn’t the only one; we noticed some townspeople taking short swims also. One evening we visited the nearby pub McDonnells Bar and met the third generation owner Padraig Conroy (who also does funerals with his brother) and his wife Marian. Strangers really become friends here as the owner took us into a back room and sang and played the guitar for us.
Carne Golf Links
At Carne Golf Links, we played golf on the 18 holes of the amazing raw and rugged golf course. We didn’t finish at the vast gorgeous course because we had a reservation to meet friends to eat in the beautiful dining room, with its tasty, local Irish menu. The golf course is spread out on the remote and rugged Mullet Peninsula.
We liked how the course kept the nature showcased in the unspoiled sand dunes, stretching 150 meters above sea level. Views are breathtaking of the Atlantic Ocean across Blacksod Bay. Designer Eddie Hackett respected the natural landscape, and we were impressed.
At spectacular must-see Ceide Fields, it’s best to start at the visitors centre to learn about the extraordinary Neolithic history of this huge site dating to the Stone Age. Beneath the wild boglands of north Mayo overlooking the Atlantic Ocean, Ceide Fields is considered the most extensive Stone Age monument in the world.
It’s dated at almost 6,000 years old, and it is a system of fields, dwelling areas, and megalithic tombs, covered now by blanket bog. Patrick Caulfield discovered this when he cut turf to heat his home and discovered a large number of buried rocks in the 1930s. Climate change had taken its toll. We hiked and took lots of pictures.
Downpatrick Head and Dun Briste Sea Stack
At the Downpatrich Head, we recommend you take phenomenal photographs of the natural site along the sea. We took lots of pictures here, with the huge rock formation in the sea that is called Dun Briste Sea Stack.
Extending the Stay in Ballina
We liked Mayo County so much that we extended our stay another week in the town of Ballina, where we got an apartment to rest up from all of our Ireland adventures. We were lucky enough to experience the annual Culture Night, when we walked around the town listening to local music at various street locations.
Culture Night and Local Favourites
We particularly liked seeing Irish dancers and Irish musicians at the Jackie Clarke Collection, a museum of historic Irish memorabilia. Frequenting our favorite coffee and lunch place Baker51, with its friendly staff, was another favorite activity. We thought their coffee, pastries and French toast were extra special and delicious.
Of course, we found plenty of pubs with live music in Ballina; our favorite being An Sean Sibin (also called The Auld Shabeen).
Recommended Museums and Cultural Stops
Our guide Fergus recommends the Mary Robinson Centre in Ballina. He also says to go to the County Mayo capital of Castlebar (pop. 13,000) to learn more about country life by visiting the National Museum of Ireland in County Mayo/Country Life.
A Day Trip to Enniscrone Beach
It was definitely worth it for us to take a bus to Enniscrone Beach from Ballina to walk by the beach and spend time at the Old Church Saturday indoor market. The reason was that Jason was able to buy an Irish hand-made leather belt from the belt-maker for 25 Euros, a deal. Carla was thrilled with her red hand-made stocking cap.
Farewell to Mayo County
We left County Mayo more than satisfied with our trip as we made our way by bus to the Dublin Airport to leave Ireland, reminiscing about the wild coastline, the pretty pastel buildings in the towns, the traditional music we heard, and the sights and wonderful people we met along the way.
Author Bio
Carla Marie Rupp and Jason Rupp are freelance travel journalists curious about the world and its people and places. They can be reached at carlaruppy@gmail.com and jasonruppy@gmail.com. You can locate the popular Jason Rupp Travel & Pamper YouTube channel with its huge following for interesting videos from all over the world.