What is LED light therapy?
LED (or light-emitting diode) therapy refers to the process of exposing skin to different wavelengths of light – where light is absorbed by the mitochondria which triggers a plethora of responses, Dr Radmila Lukian told us. For example, the stimulation of collagen production, increase circulation, and tissue repair. All of these response indirectly result in plumper, clearer and younger-looking skin. LED light therapy “can help improve skin texture, reduce blemishes and hyperpigmentation, and even out skin tone,” as well as calm psoriasis, improve the general appearance of your skin and reduce visible signs of ageing.
And LED benefits are just skin-related. In fact, the absorption of light energy can reduce inflammation and stimulate the release of growth factors – which explains why LED light therapy can help with hair growth and brain function.
Different wavelengths penetrate the skin at different depths, targeting different cells and chromophores (molecules which absorb light at particular wavelengths and reflect colour as a result). If you choose the wrong wavelength, you will not target the correct chromophore.
And do LED face masks really work?
Yes, as long as the specific wavelengths of light used are correct. “You need to look for one that can prove the LEDs work at a proven, gold-standard wavelength (for red light 833nm, infrared at 830nm and blue light at 415nm),” Laurence Newman told us. Assuming that is correct, red light therapy devices “are superb for supporting collagen production, calming inflammation and improving breakouts.” There are further scientific studies which back this up. Here’s a summary.
Outside of the world of skin health, red light exposure has been proven to help with hair loss – or rather, hair growth. More on that in our guide to red light therapy for hair loss devices, and in our CurrentBody LED Hair Growth Helmet review.
What colour LED do I need?
“The colour of the LED light to use depends on your specific skin concerns,” Dr. Jinah Yoo told us. Red, near infrared and deep infrared have the greatest scientific backing, followed by blue, then yellow.
“Green has some early-stage studies to support it – largely in skin brightening (or whitening as it is referred to in China and other APAC territories) – while purple has nothing to back it up,” Laurence told me.
“I’m always a little wary of masks with too many colours – the science just isn’t there to support the wavelengths and more often than not, the brand is spending more on getting a variety of coloured LED rather than making sure that the LEDs are of the highest quality.”
Are LED face masks safe?
Yes. “It is generally safe to use an at-home LED face mask every day,” Dr. Lukian said, “but it’s recommended to follow the manufacturer’s instructions and not overuse it. Using it for up to 20 minutes a day, three-five times a week is a good starting point.”
The LED used in at-home devices is much weaker than what it would be in-salon, and actually, the devices often undergo much more rigorous testing because they need to be safe enough to use without the presence of a professional. If you do have sensitive skin or notice irregular signs of damage, consult with a dermatologist.
What should I put on my face before LED light therapy?
Before using an LED face mask, remove your makeup, use your normal cleanser to wash your face, and then make sure your face is clean and dry. “The beauty of LED is that it can be used alongside your existing skincare routine, Laurence said. “So my recommendation is always to stick with what you know works best for you.” You can apply facial serums and moisturisers as normal after using your mask. “If you’d like to add something new, then I would always go for hydration. A really good small-molecule hyaluronic acid is top of my list for post-treatment.”
You can also use LED face masks alongside botox or other invasive procedures. “It works really well to aid healing and speed up recovery,” Laurence added. Many dermatologists actually recommend red light to help treat the skin after an invasive treatment, and we know it is perfectly safe to use alongside botox and fillers.
Are there any side effects of using LED face masks?
Not really – though it is essential to follow the guidelines laid out by the manufacturer of the mask you choose – and to consult with a dermatologist if you suffer from a specific skin condition. Contrary to popular belief, LED face masks are safe for eyes. Dr Elizabeth Hawkes explains that light varies in many different ways, from X-ray, to UV to LED. Often, blue light from screens is confused with LED, but they operate at very different wavelengths. It’s important to look for a mask that has been cleared for safety (CE for Europe/UK) – but if it has been, and it operates at the exact wavelength we state, it’s safe and not operating on a different wavelength that is potentially dangerous for eyes.
Similarly, you can’t get sun damage from an LED face mask. “Sun exposure is down to UV light which is a completely different spectrum of light from LED,” Laurence said.
LED devices we’ve tried but not featured:
CurrentBody LED Light Therapy Face Mask Series 1 – Before the CurrentBody LED Mask Series 2 launched, we featured CurrentBody Series 1. We decided to take Series 1 out of our guide when the second iteration took over. While the red light technology was the same, the first iteration fell down during use, wasn’t as comfortable, and didn’t give any coverage over the chin. If you’re going to invest in a CurrentBody mask, we’d recommend making it the second launch.
Stylpro Wavelength LED Face Mask – While we rated how affordable the Stylepro LED face mask is (it comes in at under £100), the wavelgnths of light are 633-nm and 830-nm rather than 630-nm and 830-nm, and we didn’t see any major changes in fine lines during testing. It’s popular thanks to its low price, but I’d rather splurge on our more comfortable top pick from CurrentBody.
Lovsheme LED Face Mask – You have to be careful of counterfeit products in the LED space, particularly when shopping on Amazon. While this device claims to offer anti-inflammatory benefits, reduce acne, reduce wrinkles and clear acne blemishes, the wavelengths of light emitted are not disclosed which either makes it unsafe or redundant.
Meet the experts:
GLAMOUR’s LED face mask sources:
More GLAMOUR-Approved LED devices to shop:
After something else? Read my NuFace Microcurrent Device review. For more from GLAMOUR’s Senior European Commerce Editor Sophie Cockett, follow her on Instagram @sophiecockettx.