In the Cornish tourist industry the start of September is often referred to as the season for newlyweds and nearly-deads, e.g those with the freedom to take a break at the start of the academic year. Kids are back at school, prices have dropped, but the weather is still pleasant enough to make this part of the UK a great place to have a holiday.
Image © Kerry McCarthy
Why Porthleven?
I’m neither newly wed nor nearly dead (I hope!) but my love of the Cornish coast had me booking a break here in a flash as soon as my child was back at school. It was a chance for a few days away to see a dear friend and get some much needed “me time” after moving house. I chose to fly from Stansted to Newquay to save time, thankfully my friend was happy to come collect me when I landed!
Flying to Cornwall – is it worth it?
The flight from Stansted to Newquay is less than an hour and flights were in the region of £35 each way. Sure you have to add on time to get to the airport beforehand, and money for parking or taxis, but all in all it was a very pleasant and surprisingly relaxing way to get from Essex to Cornwall.
If I were to drive it would have been a minimum travel time of 6 hours, and on some occasions it has taken in excess of 10 hours to do the journey. By train it is about 7 hours, and doesn’t come in cheap. The other option is a mega-bus, which is great for the super-thrifty but the journey time will take a toll on your sanity.
Unusually quiet at Stansted! Image © Kerry McCarthy
Where I stayed
I stayed in a small cottage in the centre of town, right by the church. There are quite a number of airbnb places to rent, many that are right on the coastal path and have fantastic views of the sea. There is also a campsite just a 5 minute walk from Porthleven Harbour – I have stayed here once before and can highly recommend it!
I also spent a night at Bedruthan Hotel and Spa, back up towards Newquay as it was convenient for the flight home, and who can resist a spa break especially after coastal walking?!
On the way to the spa at The Bedruthan Image © Kerry McCarthy
The Bedruthan in a nutshell
This hotel is a much more affordable option than its sister spa hotel The Scarlet, and nearby Watergate Bay – also very popular. The quality though was incredible. The spa was well-appointed and had sea views, there are two outdoor pools to enjoy nestled amongst the hotel gardens, and there is a secluded spa garden available to pre-book – an absolute must if you go!
Artwork by the likes of Jamie Medlin and Sophie Lizbeth Moore were hung everywhere and the place was packed with furniture by high end designer brands.
The hotel has two eateries, the Ogo Restaurant and the Wild Cafe. Make no mistake that the cafe is very beautiful and passes as a very good restaurant in its own right. The menu wasn’t a la carte but it was exquisite, as were the Cornish wines from local vineyards.
I’m planning to make a return to this hotel for a longer stay as they also have a range of workshops available to book, which would make for a very creative and relaxing break!
Things to do in and around Porthleven
This small fishing village is a hive of activity. There are gift shops, clothes shops, galleries, pubs, restaurants, bakeries, pop-ups, fitness centre… and there is always something going on! It is well known for its summer food festival, and often has great music nights on the agenda too.
Porthleven Beach Image © Kerry McCarthy
There are pubs a-plenty – Shoals Brewery is a big attraction, especially as it is in a little area that has lots of street food options as well as an indoor market. The Atlantic pub, which while a little tired, has the best views in town!
The Mussel Shoal – a great little harbour-side bar and food shack. Serves freshly caught local seafood – the mussels in wine and garlic were divine!
Porthleven fitness collective – a welcoming micro-gym with a big community spirit. I booked onto a Boxing Fitness Class where I was met by very friendly locals, and pushed to my exercise limits by a wonderful instructor!
Eat a cornish pasty – I chose Anns Pasties and had the good fortune to witness a Gurtlicker – which is a pasty the size of a small dog, and would probably feed a whole family.
Enjoy a fresh pastry – I hit up Bolla after my fitness class – superb coffee and wonderful pastries!
Walk the coastal path – The Penrose Walk is a lovely 5 mile loop that takes you along the coast. The route sweeps past Loe Bar, beside Loe Pool, and through some woods that could be set in central France. It goes without saying that the views are stunning, whether they are coastal or hillside, and it spits you back out into Porthleven, perfect for a refreshing pint!
Mussels and Pint by the Harbour © Kerry McCarthy
Visit local bays – Porthleven holds a special place in my heart, but given that the north side of Cornwall is just 11 miles away there are plenty of gorgeous bays, villages and towns in all directions.
In no particular order put the following on your itinerary – you can do a few in a day!
- Portreath
- Porthtowan
- Mawgan Porth
- St Ives
- The Lizard
- Falmouth
- Gylly Beach
- Polly Joke
A Crimson Bromeliad found along the Coastal Path © Kerry McCarthy
What’s to love (and not love) about Porthleven
The pace, the vibe, the light (even on a rainy day the sky still somehow seems bright!), the friendly locals, the food, the art, the walks… There is so much to love about this small village that I could go on forever! As for what’s not to like, well I honestly couldn’t tell you a thing. I am yet to have a bad or sad experience here.
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Travel Writer Bio
Kerry McCarthy at The Mussel Shoal, Porthleven
Kerry McCarthy is a Writer, Artist, & Happiness Coach who loves to travel. You can find out more about her adventures over on instagram at @kerrymccarthystars